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Tobacco pipe smoking tips from ...

The Newsletter Archive.

Index
 
The Proper Light
Preparing Flake Style Tobacco
Keeping Your Pipe Lit
Should you dedicate a pipe for each type of tobacco?
Super Fast Tobacco Aging
Keeping Your Pipe Stems Shining Like New
Keeping Your Bowl Rim Clean
The Right Pipe Cleaner For The Job
Pipe and Tobacco Combinations
Top 5 Questions About Aging Pipe Tobacco
Cake ... No, not the birthday kind ... the one in your pipes! Four part series.
Top 5 Questions About Estate Pipes
Removing Dings, Scratches & Dents From Your Pipes
Short Term Pipe Tobacco Storage
When To Dump Your Pipe Ash
Should You Leave a Pipe Cleaner In When You Finish Smoking? The Test
Which is cooler, sandblasted or smooth pipes? The Test
A Tobacco Blending Primer A Four Part Series
How many pipes should be in your rotation?
Is Pipe Smoking Gaining In Popularity?
How To Re-hydrate Pipe Tobacco
The Proper Light Revisited
Seasonal Pipe Tobacco
Long Term Tobacco Storage
What is a "Balanced" Pipe? Part One
What is a "Balanced" Pipe? Part Two
Fixing an Improperly Drilled Airway
A Serious Topic - Pending Tobacco Bans
Which is better, matches or lighter?
Changing Weather, Changing Tastes.
Pipe Cleaning Solvents
'Tis the Season
Winter Smoking
Spring Smoking
Summer Smoking
The Future of Pipe Smoking
Choosing a Pipe
A Stem Primer
What is the RTDA Show
Proper Moisture Content for Pipe Tobacco
It's Thanksgiving

 
The Proper Light
 
Here is a pipe lighting method that will help ensure an effortless smoke. First, make sure that your tobacco is packed firmly at the very top and about 1/8" to 1/4" *below* the top of the bowl. By doing this you'll allow room for the tobacco to rise when you first light the tobacco and your bowl rims won't char and gather tars as fast as they would if you pack right to the very top. Next, light the tobacco in three stages. The first two lights, or "charring lights", play a key roll is how well the tobacco burns and stays lit. Take your match or lighter and slowing and evenly pass it over the top of the tobacco while gently drawing on the pipe. Once the top of the tobacco is charred or blackened, stop and let the smoldering embers of tobacco go out. Now take your tamper and tamp down the tobacco that has charred and risen from the first light. Repeat one more time or until there is a very fine layer of ash covering the entire bowl. Now you are ready for the final light. Carefully, slowly and evenly light the entire surface of the tobacco while drawing in. This method takes a little patience to perfect but it will pay off in a bowl of tobacco that burns much cooler, longer and more evenly than if you attempted to get your bowl lit with only one lighting.
 

 
Keeping Your Pipe Lit.
 
There are many tricks that can be using to keep your tobacco burning without constant re-lighting. This little trick will take a little time to master but once you do it will become second nature and part of your smoking habit. The concept behind this method is similar to a bellows. When you sense that your pipes is going out, simply blow into the stem very gently. After a few gentle breaths into the pipe you'll notice that your tobacco will begin to smolder and re-ignite. Now partially cover your bowl with your thumb and take a couple of deep puffs. Your tobacco should once again be fully lit. Ideally, you should practice this technique the whole time you are smoking your pipe and not wait until it is about to go out. Master this technique and you'll be able to smoke your pipe all the way to the bottom without ever having to re-light!
 

 
Preparing Flake Style Tobacco
 

There are many ways to prepare flake style pipe tobacco (pressed and sliced) for smoking ... here are a few. First you'll need a good flake pipe. A good flake pipe has a narrow, deep bowl. Preferably 5/8" - 3/4" diameter x 1"+ deep. The most basis way prepare the slices is to put them in the palm of one hand and cover with the palm of your other hand and rub your hands together until the flakes break apart. This is called "rubbing out". Generally, the more you rub out a flake the more mellow it will be and less you rub out the flake the more intense the flavors will be.

This is the whole flake method. First note in which direction the "grain" of the tobacco is going in the flake. Cut a piece or pieces of flake *against* (at 90 degrees) the grain and equal to the depth of your flake pipe. Take the entire flake of tobacco and roll it up into a fairly tight tube or roll. If done correctly the ends you have cut will be the *long* ends of the tube. The diameter of the roll of flake tobacco should be slightly less the diameter of the tobacco chamber of the pipe you will be smoking. If not, roll another piece of flake over the first. Place the roll into your pipe and press it down with a tamper with just enough force to flatten the top. Light as you normally would and enjoy!

This is the "sandwich" method. Prepare the flakes in the same manner as you learned in the whole flake method except this time take two different types of flake and roll them together. The possibilities are endless. Try a Virginia flake and an English flake or a Virginia with an aromatic flake. You might want to tone down a strong flake that is overwhelming on it's own with a milder flake. Have Fun!

 

 
Should you dedicate a pipe for each type of tobacco?
 
We hear this question often. There are basically three different categories of pipe tobacco; aromatic, Virginia and English. Each has it's own characteristics. As each is smoked they will impart it's unique flavor into the porous briar and cake of the pipe they are smoked in. The more the given tobacco is smoked in the same pipe the more of it's flavor will linger behind. When a different type of tobacco is smoked it will be influenced by the tobacco previously smoked. This effect can last for the next 5 - 10 bowls and in extreme cases the pipe will have to be thoroughly cleaned to remove the previous flavors. A pipe that is used to smoke many different types and blends of tobacco will eventually become very bland tasting. If you have the luxury of several pipes it would be a good idea to dedicate a pipe or two to each type of tobacco to avoid tainting your smoking experience. There are some pipe smokers that will go so far as to dedicate a pipe for each brand of tobacco. While this may be extreme, it would be great to have at least 1 pipe dedicated to your absolute favorite tobacco blend. By doing so you'll experience the taste of the tobacco in it's purest form.
 

 
Top 5 Questions About Aging Pipe Tobacco
 

We receive many questions via email every day. One subject that usually has the most questions is "aging pipe tobacco". Aging pipe tobacco is a huge topic and could easily become the subject matter for a years worth of newsletters so we decided to compile the top 5 questions found in our Inbox.

 
 
1. Why should I age my pipe tobacco?
 

There are as many reasons to age pipe tobacco as there are questions concerning how to. Here are just a few ....

  • Simply put, well aged and properly stored pipe tobacco will be the finest you will ever smoke.
  • We have all experienced the demise of one or more our favorite blends. Aging provides a hedge.
  • You will save a lot of money by buying now at current prices. The price of pipe tobacco is constantly rising due to manufacturing costs, the cost of raw tobacco and production increases and new taxes. Buy now and save later.
  • New laws are aimed at limiting and completely doing away with online tobacco sales that we now enjoy. Buying online is so threatened that if the current crop of laws pass we will no longer be able to make online purchases of tobacco with the next 12 - 24 months.
 
2. Which type of pipe tobacco benefits the most from aging?
 
Virginia type tobaccos are decidedly the best prospects for aging followed by English style tobaccos. Aromatic pipe tobacco, in our experience, benefits little if any from the aging process.
 
3. Where should I store my aged tobacco?
 
Your aged tobacco should be stored in the coolest and darkest place in your abode. Light and heat are the 2 biggest enemies of the aging process and should be avoided at all costs. Your storage area can be as simple as thick paper bags under your bed or spare closet to a dedicated, climate controlled room similar to a wine cellar and everything in between. Replicating the environment of a wine cellar would be the ideal scenario. Wine and pipe tobacco both thrive in the same temperature, conditions and humidity. Humidors designed for cigars, whether walk in or otherwise, generally are much too humid for pipe tobacco. Cigars need 70%+ humidity while pipe tobacco does well in 30 - 40% depending on the type of tobacco. Igloo type coolers work well for storing your aging pipe tobacco.
 
4. How long should I age my tobacco?
 
The minimum length of time that you will notice any significant benefit of aging is 6 - 12 months. Your aging pipe tobacco will really start to improve at the 18 month mark and approach the sublime at about 36. After 36 months the aging process will slow a bit but will continue. We have found properly stored pipe tobacco as old as 30 years that is absolutely extraordinary. There is no such thing as over aging pipe tobacco as long as the tobacco is stored properly.
 
5. What should I store my aged tobacco in?
 
There are many ways to store your aging tobacco. If the tobacco came in a sealed tin simply mark the date on it and put it away in your "cellar". There are also many affordable tinning machines available for home use as well. A search for "tinning machines" on a major search engine like Google will reveal many choices. Mason jars and canning jars work well when sealed properly. Vacuum sealed bags are another option. Well sealed vacuum bags have an unprotected usable shelf life of about 18 +/- months. They will work very well for many years if the sealed bags are kept in a climate controlled environment such as a wine type cellar, humidor or another sealed container like an Igloo cooler. Well sealed bags also serve to press the tobacco which has benefits as well.
 

 
Pipe and Tobacco Combinations
 
Pipes can sometimes be very finicky when it comes to the kind and type of tobacco that it will burn well. It pays to try 2 or 3 bowls of a specific tobacco in a specific pipe and record how it smoked. Then try a different tobacco and take note of the results. Continue to experiment until you find a tobacco that burns cool, dry and clean. You'll find that a pipe will burn one specific tobacco better than anything else you might pack in it. You might also encounter the rare pipe that will burn most tobaccos equally well. Sometimes it comes down to engineering but often times it's inexplicable. As a rule of thumb tall narrow bowls burn flakes well and wide shallow bowls burn mixtures well. Wide bowls also tend to tame hot burning tobaccos due to the greater surface area. The shape of the bowl can make a difference to. Conical or V shaped bowls will do a better job of burning tobacco that is hard to keep lit or has a tendency to smoke wet and will intensify the flavors of the tobacco. Cylindrical bowls that have basically the same diameter from top to bottom will tend to burn a bit cooler and slower which will bring out the subtleties in the tobacco. As much as finding the right tobacco is a journey so is finding the magical combination of pipe and tobacco. Enjoy the ride!
 

 
Super Fast Tobacco Aging
 
Now that the warm weather has arrived (at least here in Vegas where it has been 105+) I'd like to share an aging trick that I discovered quite by accident. Take a tin of tobacco and place it on your dashboard in full sunlight or on a window sill in full sunlight. Leave it there for about 30 minutes +/-. Now take the tin inside and allow it to cool to room temperature. You'll find that your tobacco will now taste and smoke very similar to tobacco that has been aged about 6 - 12 months. Of course there's no substitute for properly aged tobacco but this is a great way to improve the smoking quality of just about any type of tobacco. This technique works especially well with Virginia style tobacco. If you'd like to try this with your favorite bulk tobacco simply use an old tin or small coffee can. Only do 2 - 4 ounces at a time. Enjoy!
 

 
Keeping Your Pipe Stems Shining Like New
 
First, we have to give credit where credit is due. This tip comes from the video "Total Pipe Care and Maintenance". We've all had our vulcanite rubber stems turn that nasty brown/green that happens over time. This is oxidization. Oxidization comes from the chemical reaction from the saliva in our mouths reacting with the vulcanite and from sunlight. This unsightly process can be slowed with a simple product that you most likely already have in your kitchen ... olive oil. This process is best done with a brand new stem or a stem that has been thoroughly cleaned. First, take the stem from the bowl. With your finger take a very small amount of olive oil and coat the outside surface of the stem. Allow the olive oil to penetrate for about 5 - 10 minutes. Now take a clean cotton rag and wipe off the excess. It's that simple! Here's why it works ......... If you look at a vulcanite stem under magnification you'd see that there are thousands, if not millions, of tiny pits in the surface, similar to an english muffin. This is normal. By applying the olive oil to the stem the microscopic pits get filled by the oil leaving less surface area on the stem for the oxidation to get a foot hold. You'll also want to keep your pipe out of sunlight, direct or otherwise, for any extended period of time.
 

 
Cake ... No, not the birthday kind ... the one in your pipes! Part I of IV
 
This is Part I in a III part series. Cake, the layer of carbon the clings to the inner walls of your pipe bowls, is very important to a good smoke. It often determines whether your pipe will be a good smoker or a poor smoker. A good cake insulates the bowl, allows good air flow around the tobacco which promotes a clean, even burn and helps keep the tobacco lit, prevents bowl burn outs and keeps your pipes burning cool and dry. The ideal cake is about the thickness of a dime or a nickel (US). Any thicker than that and you run the risk of cracking your bowl. See this image. Cake needs to be of consistent thickness from the top of the bowl to the bottom and needs regular maintenance. The most important part of the pipe bowl that needs proper cake is the heel, the very bottom. Forming cake in the heel is also the most difficult place for cake to form due to the excess moisture that gathers there and the fact that most smokers don't smoke their pipes all the way to the bottom. Different tobaccos form different cakes at different speeds. Aromatic tobaccos tend to develop cake the fastest but is often the softest and most fragile. Virginia tobaccos produce cake somewhat slower but it tends to be much harder and more uniform. English style tobaccos, in general, are the slowest to form cake. The cake tends to be as hard as Virginia cake but a little more brittle. Cake also has the tendency to hold the flavor of the tobacco that formed it in the first place. In the next 2 articles in this series we'll cover how to properly start and build a cake and how to maintain and trim it when necessary.
 

 
Cake ... No, not the birthday kind ... the one in your pipes! Part II of IV
 
This is Part II in a III part series. Starting a cake in a new pipe or a recently refurbished pipe is very important. Doing so will lengthen the life of the pipe and you'll get more enjoyment from it. So how do we do it? Well, there are about as many theories on cake as there are stars in the sky but we'll discuss a method that has served us very well for many, many years. First take a thin pointy object such as a nail and lightly scratch the inside of the bowl. This gives the cake something to grab onto. Often bowl chambers are way to smooth. Skip this step if your bowl has a carbon coating. Next take a little honey and some very fine pipe ash and mix them together. Some use water or even scotch or whiskey but we've found that honey works best. Now take a pipe cleaner and place it in the pipe so it is extending into the bottom of the bowl. This is to prevent the mixture from plugging the airway. Apply the mixture lightly to the heel and bottom half of the bowl. Allow the pipe to sit overnight or until the mixture loses most of the sticky texture. Pack the bowl about half full and smoke it all the way to the bottom. This is very important. It is OK to allow the bowl to cool in between lights but make sure you finish the bowl in one sitting .... all the way to the bottom. If you have problems keeping the very last of the tobacco lit simply dump the ash and mix a tiny bit of fresh tobacco into what remains in the bowl. Don't empty the ash from the bowl until the bowl is back to room temperature. What happens is the honey carmelizes and gets the cake started very fast. Don't worry, the sweet flavor will go away by the second bowl. Next time you smoke the pipe you can fill it to the top and enjoy the whole bowl ... just make sure you smoke to the bottom, especially for the first few bowl. This will encourage cake to form in the very bottom of the bowl which is the most important place and also the place that is the hardest to cake.
 

 
Cake ... No, not the birthday kind ... the one in your pipes! Part III of IV
 
This is Part III in a IV part series. Once you have developed a good cake in your pipe it is very important that you maintain it properly. If you don't, this is what could happen to your pipe - See this image. The proper cake is an even cake of equal thickness from the top of the bowl to the bottom. In order to achieve this even cake there are a few things you can do. First, always finish smoking your pipe. It is a bad habit to smoke just the top portion of the bowl. This causes a thicker cake on top than on bottom. A pipe like this will never smoke well. If the reason you are not smoking your pipes down to the bottom is because you are having problems keeping lit, then try emptying most of the ash and mix in a little fresh tobacco. Tamp down and relight. If your pipe doesn't have some serious design flaw this should take care of the problem. Second, use a tamper ... round if possible. Tamping scours the walls of the bowl and encourages an even, hard cake. Yes, using a tamper does slow down the development of cake but that will be a plus once you have a proper cake. Not tamping tends to cause a loose, flaky cake. Third, when you are finish smoking ... to the bottom of the bowl of course ... cover the bowl with the palm of your hand and give the pipe a couple of firm shakes. This will distribute much of the fine ash that is necessary for a good cake around the wall of the bowl. Also, let the pipe cool before cleaning out the remains or "dottle" because the cake is most vulnerable to damage when hot. In the next and final Part in this series we'll cover reaming and trimming your cake. Stay tuned!
 

 
Cake ... No, not the birthday kind ... the one in your pipes! Part IV of IV
 

This is Part IV in a IV part series. If you haven't already please read Part I, Part II & III. Once your cake has built up to a point where it is thicker than a US nickel it is time to start reaming. Reaming is the process by which cake is cut down to the proper size. There are a few different tools that can be used. They can be seen here and we'll discuss them in a moment. For routine reaming you only need to cut the cake back to about the thickness of a US dime. Under normal circumstances you never want to cut the entire cake and expose the briar pipe walls. If you do remove the entire cake you will have to go through the process of breaking in the pipe all over again. There are times when you might want to remove the entire cake such as when you'd want to remove the cake because it is holding the flavors of a tobacco you no longer favor or you want to refurbish an estate pipe that you have just added to your collection. Always ream your pipe when it is at room temperature. When making the first pass with your chosen reamer adjust it so it barely touches the cake. This will round the cake to a uniform shape. Next continue to adjust the reamer to bite a little more. Each pass of the reamer should be very light taking only a little cake each time until the proper thick has been achieved. Never turn the reamer back and forth in the bowl. This can cause the cake to fracture. Turn in one direction only. Reaming is a bit of a messy process so it would be a good idea to ream over a garbage pail. The flat style reamers, such as the Brebbia model we stock, are inexpensive and do a great job of keeping cake in check in between more thorough reamings. They also are small enough to be carried in a pipe pouch. For more accurate reaming and thicker, harder cake a heavier duty reamer such as the Senior reamer is needed. This reamer makes short work of the most stubborn cake. It can be precisely adjusted and has the added benefit of a built in shank reaming tool for complete maintenance. You need to use care with the Senior reamer because it is capable of cutting cake very fast. You might be tempted to cut the cake in one pass, which this tool is totally capable of, but resist the temptation and cut the cake in several shallower passes ... your cake will thank you.

We hope you've enjoyed and learned from this four part series. We'll be during similar multi part maintenance lesson over the next few months. If you have a suggestion on a series you'd like to see feel free to email. Happy smoking, Team VegasSmokes

 

 
Keeping Your Bowl Rim Clean
 
A charred, sticky and caked bowl rim is nothing but an eyesore. There are a few things you can do to keep it looking good. For this article lets assume that your bowl rim is already clean or new. First, never pack your pipe all the way to the top. +/- 1/4" from the top is ideal depending on the overall depth of the tobacco chamber. This will allow room for the tobacco to expand when you light and still not touch the top and will keep you from putting the bowl rim in direct contact with flame. Second, take a little saliva and rub it on the bowl rim before you light. This will keep the flame from charring the briar. And last but not least, always clean your bowl rim when you are finished smoking your pipe. While the pipe is still warm apply saliva to the rim and wipe with a soft cloth or paper towel until clean. Saliva does an amazing job of breaking down and cleaning tobacco gum and tar. For more stubborn tar or pipes with a rusticated or burl rim an old toothbrush and saliva work wonders. I realized some of you might be put off by the use of saliva but give it a try and you'll be pleasantly surprised. Happy smoking!
 

 
The Right Pipe Cleaner For The Job
 
There are many things in life that are "one size fits all". Unfortunately pipe cleaners are not one of those things. Pipe cleaners come in many sizes and styles. There are "regular", extra fluffy or absorbent, tapered, bristle and so called "churchwarden" pipe cleaners named for the extra long length. Regular pipe cleaners have been the bread and butter cleaner for a very long time. They are easy to find, fit just about any size pipe and do a very good job. Some pipe smokers use them exclusively. While they work well in most cases I wanted to take the time to expand your pipe cleaner horizons. Each of the other styles serve a more specific purpose which I'll cover briefly for your reading pleasure. Fluffy pipe cleaners are great for pipes with larger airways and passages. You should use them when you notice that a regular size pipe cleaner just isn't snug enough to do a thorough cleaning job. Don't force them down a stem if it feels too tight ... we've recovered many a broken off fluffy cleaner in folks prized pipes. Fluffy cleaners also work great in the airway of the briar bowl itself which tends to be drilled larger than the stem. Tapered pipe cleaners work well on pipe that have a lot of bend to them. They will normally glide down the stems of even the most sharply bent pipes. I know each of us has a pipe or two that might not take a regular pipe cleaner all the way from the button on the stem to the bottom of the bowl without separating the pipe ... perfect time to use the tapered cleaner. The bristle pipe cleaner is essentially a regular size pipe cleaner that has nylon bristle embedded along it's length. These are my favorites. They do a superb job of cleaning even the cruddiest of pipes while still maintaining good absorbency. Using bristle cleaners will allow you to go longer between through cleaning of your pipe and when you have to it'll be less of challenging job. Churchwarden or extra long pipe cleaners are the only way to go for your long stemmed pipes. They can also be economical for your regular length pipes because you can cut them in halve or even thirds. What ever you do, you owe it to yourself and your pipe smoking enjoyment to not skimp on pipe cleaners, don't use the ones that you find in arts and craft store and experiment with different types. Happy Smoking!
 

 
Top 5 Questions About Estate Pipes
 
1. What is an estate pipe?
 
Simply put, it is a pipe that has been previously smoked or has been sitting unsmoked for several years for whatever reason.
 

2. Isn't smoking a pipe that someone else smoked unsanitary?

 
My first response when asked this question is ..."You weren't the first person to eat off that fork either!". Of course that is presuming that the estate pipe in question has been thoroughly cleaned and sanitized such as we and other reputable dealers do. I wouldn't put a pipe found at a garage sale or from a non pro dealer on eBay™ in my mouth either.
 
3. Can I save money buying an estate pipe rather than a new pipe?
 
Generally speaking yes. Most estate versions of currently produced pipes will be on average 25 - 50% less than the cost of the same pipe new depending on condition but there is no set rule. The exceptions would be famous pipes that are no longer in production like the awesome GBD Uniques of the 60s which can sell for hundreds more than they cost new, one of a kind high grades and certain rare years, grades or stampings. All of these would fall into the category of "collectibles".
 
4. I've heard estate pipes smoke better than new pipes. Is that true?
 
Yes and no. (How did you know I was going to say that) Pre-smoked pipes with even the most minute amount of cake will smoke well right from the start (unless it was just poorly engineered in the first place) simply because someone else has already started the "break in process" for you. It's also my experience that older, high quality unsmoked pipes, like say a 70s Charatan, will break in very fast and smoke well right from the get go. Some might claim that is due to older or better briar but to keep away from controversy I won't be so bold. Of course there are exceptions. Take the Italian made Ardor pipe. Brand new Ardor pipes smoke better at the beginning than some thoroughly cleaned and refurbished estate pipes and most other new pipes.
 
5. I found a box of old pipes in my grandfather's attic. How much are they worth?
 
This is undoubtedly the toughest question I have to answer. Some people don't like the answer and some even get insulted or heart broken. Old pipes have to have some type of pedigree to have value. Just because it is old matters little. We have literally hundreds of what I call "drug store" type pipes that are sitting in boxes that have been culled out to save 2 or 3 good pipes ... just can't bear to throw them out for some reason. Some are decades old. Some are slightly saleable but the cost of repair and refurbishing far out weights the resale value. Many, many times we have been brought old pipes that folks tell us are ivory and expect are valuable but turn out to be simple cookie cutter meerschaum pipes that just happen to be old. It's the same as if you had a box of old watches. Yes, the Rolex and even the Timex would have value but the RoLUX or Swatch with the scratch on the face is worthless regardless of age. It breaks my heart to tell someone that the 40 year old pipe that Grandpa smoked every holiday is worth, well ... nothing. But then again sometimes Grandpa smoked a 1917 Duke Street stamped Dunhill ... now we're talkin'.
 
BONUS QUESTION: Where is the best place to buy estate pipes?
 
That's easy. VegasSmokes.com of course! :)
 
If you'd like to try your hand at cleaning and refurbishing that old box of pipes yourself we highly recommend the video "Total Pipe Care and Maintenance"
 

 
Removing Dings, Scratches & Dents From Your Pipes
 
It's happened to all of us ... no matter how careful we are eventually even our most cherished pipes will suffer a ding, scratch or dent. You can remove most of these from your pipe with the following method. Just do it very carefully. First, take a pin and dip it in cool water. Touch it to the ding so that some water fills the ding and no more. Think of the ding as a swimming pool you are filling ... no matter how small. The water should be higher than the surface of the pipe. Let it soak in for a few minutes and apply again if necessary. Now take the tip another pin and heat it to red hot and touch it to JUST the water and not the briar. This takes a very steady hand. The water should steam off very fast and the ding should be gone. The whole procedure might take a try or two so be patient. If you put too much water and more than it takes to "fill the pool" you could cook off some of the finish. Not the end of the world if you do but you will have to rewax the pipe. I highly recommend that you try this method a few times on some "knock around" pipes until you get the hang of it.
 

 
Short Term Pipe Tobacco Storage
 

There has been much written on the subject of long term pipe tobacco storage but not much on short term so I though I'd take the time to address the subject. For the purposes of this discussion I'll be considering the storage of 4 ounces or less. In the past it was vogue to place apple slices, orange peels and other similar items in a pouch for the purposes of keep tobacco fresh ... this is not a good idea. The fruits will start to break down with heat and light and spoil your tobacco. You'll be smoking and handling all forms of bacteria and fungus, some visible and some not. An unpleasant thought at the least. Pouch humidifiers work so much better if kept clean. Distilled water works best and will lengthen the disk's life. How about the ziploc lock bags that we sometimes receive our pipe tobacco in? They are fine for a few days if kept sealed and out of direct light. If you live in a dry climate a pouch humidifier with be just what the doctor ordered ... so to speak. Leather and vinyl pipe tobacco pouches work much better as well as being more dignified. Make sure the one you select has a supple rubber or latex liner. The cheapy kind usually has a plastic liner that will eventually crack and split. In general roll up or snap type pouches work better than the zipper variety. The zippers on those let air pass and get just plain foul after a while. Keeping your tobacco in your pocket is OK for the very short term. Remember this .... when the temperature of tobacco rises so done the humidity. When the temperature falls so does the humidity. Yes, I can give you the scientific explaination but I'll save you the boredom for the sake of brevity. That being said, assuming your tobacco was at perfect humidity when you set out in the morning, it will become to too damp when left in your pocket or anywhere else above "room temp" for any length of time and will lead to a hot, wet smoke. All is not lost ... either lay out a bowl's worth of tobacco prior to smoking if convenient or simply pack the bowl about 10 - 15 minutes before your smoke break. Now what if your tobacco got cold and is now a bit on the dry side (again a hot smoke)? Almost a no brainer ... warm it up in your hand or pocket. Happy and cool smoking, VegasSmokes

 

 
Getting Dumped ...
 

No, this isn't about getting your heart broken ... it's about keeping your pipe burning! Many have emailed and asked "While I'm smoking should I dump my ash or leave it in the pipe?" Thats easy ... Both. Through out most of your bowl having a layer of ash on top of the burning tobacco is a benefit. From the first light the ash that will develope will serve several functions.

  • Keeps the tobacco from burning too fast or too hot.
  • Keeps the tobacco burning evenly.
  • Helps promote a healthy cake inside the bowl.
  • Promotes a smoldering effect that enhances the subtle tobacco flavors.
  • Helps disperse your flame for even relights.
  • Many other good things. (Had to add that just in case I forgot anything)

So when do you dump?

  • When the ash gets so dense from tamping that it smothers the burning tobacco.
  • When you are having problems keeping the pipe lit ... assuming it is properly packed.
  • When it has become so thick or dense that you can no longer relight.

When you do have to dump, only dump about half of the ash then lightly tamp the ash back down and relight. Please be safe when dumping ash. Almost certainly a few hot tobacco embers will leave with the ash that could burn your favorite smoking jacket ... or worst.

 

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Leave It In or Pull It Out??
 

Your pipe cleaner that is. One year ago someone emailed and asked whether or not it was a good idea to leave a pipe cleaner in the stem when you're through smoking. I answered according to what I had been taught ... NO. I've always listened to the pros and cons on the subject and formulated my own conclusion. After thinking about I came a the conclusion that I shouldn't be jumping to that conclusion. I decided to perform a somewhat controlled test. Here is how I did it.

  • Two identical, new Savinelli Model 114 pipes were used. Both croos grained.
  • Each was smoked three times a week for 1 year (3/03)
  • Each rested 2 days between smoking.
  • Each was cleaned with 4 pipe cleaners after smoking was complete.
  • Each was thoroughly cleaned every 4 weeks.
  • The same tobacco, Five Star Deluxe, was smoked exclusively.
  • One was left to rest with a pipe cleaner in the stem and shank and one was not.
  • Standard size and fluff pipe cleaners were used.

Here are my observations at the conclusion of the test. The pipe in which the cleaner was left in will be referred to as Pipe A. Pipe B is the pipe without.

  • The shank of Pipe A is slightly darker than Pipe B leaving a slightly two toned appearance.
  • Pipe A developed a slight gap between the shank and stem.
  • Pipe A's shank expanded slightly larger than the stem.
  • Pipe A had more pipe cleaner residue (stray fuzz) in it when thoroughly cleaned.
  • Pipe B took longer to break in. I'm not sure if that had anything to do with the test.
  • Pipe A took a few more cleaners for the once a month cleaning.
  • After 1 year Pipe A is a little more ... well for lack of a better term, stinky.

So there you have it. Pipe B, without the cleaner, faired better than Pipe A with. I am only going to guess why but I suspect that the pipe cleaner left in does more to keep the moisture trapped than it does to wick it out. Happy Smoking.

 

 
Which is Cooler, Sandblasted or Smooth?
 

I've heard many times in the past that sandblasted pipes smoke cooler than smooth pipes due to the greater surface area. After many years of taking this to be a somewhat statement I decided to put it to the test. Here's how I set up the test.

  • Two identical, new Savinelli Model 316 pipes (one rustic/sandblast and one smooth matte) were used.
  • Each was smoked ten times over a ten day period for the purpose of breaking them in.
  • Gawith & Hoggarth Balkan Blend was used exclusively for break in and testing.
  • Each was filled and packed to the top with an equal portion of tobacco for the test.
  • Each was placed in a plastic folding pipe stand.
  • Each was not moved from the pipe stand or touched during the test.
  • Each was lit with 3 matches.
  • Each received 1 full draw on the pipe every 30 seconds.
  • Each was tamped every 10 draws.
  • Test was conducted 10 minutes into the bowl.
  • Bowl temperature was taken using a fine point metal probes attached to digital thermometers (identical models) that were placed on the right side of the bowl at the midway point and held tight to the bowl with the help of the plastic pipe stand.
  • At 30 minutes both pipes were allowed to go out.

Here are my observations during the test.

  • The rustic pipe was actually hotter during the first 10 minutes prior to "official testing".
  • At the 10 minute point the rustic was 6 degrees hotter the the smooth.
  • At 15 minutes the rustic was 4 degrees cooler.
  • At 20 minutes the rustic was 2.5 degrees cooler.
  • At 25 minutes the rustic was 3.5 degrees cooler.
  • At 30 minutes the rustic was 4 degrees cooler.
  • At 35 minutes (after the pipes went out) the rustic was 18 degrees cooler.

So there you have it. The rustic pipe did indeed smoke cooler but I'd have to say that the few degrees during the first 30 minutes hardly constitutes a "cooler smoking pipe". I could not tell the difference. What I did notice was how fast the rustic pipe cooled down after the tobacco went out as compared to the smooth. Hmmmmmm. Happy Smoking.

 

 
A Tobacco Blending Primer
 
We receive many emails asking questions on how to blend your own pipe tobacco. While we are admittedly not blending experts we do have many years of basic experience we'd like to share. This will be Part I in a 4 part series. For even more blending information visit TobaccoBlending.com. For tobacco blending components visit this page.
 

When describing the act of "blending pipe tobacco" I'd have to break up the process into two categories, Hybrid and Raw Component blends. Hybrid blends are those that are composed of mixtures or flakes of existing tobaccos. For example ....4 parts Dunhill 965 and 1 part Esoterica Pembroke. Raw component blends are those composed of raw ingredients. For example ... 3 parts Red Virginia, 2 Parts Stoved Virginia and 1 part Turkish. You'll notice how I used the term *parts*. Parts are the easiest units of measure when you are first starting out. A part could be anything from an ounce to the contents of a measuring device of your choice. In the beginning please start by using small parts such as 1/2oz or tablespoons. The reason it is best to start small is because not all of the concoctions you'll come up with will be worthy of a second bowl. You want to enjoy and experiment without exposing to much of you favorite tobacco to your whims.

Some of you might be thinking .."Why should I blend my own tobacco?" Well, part is for the sheer fun of experimenting and the pride of having developed a blend that you and your pals truly enjoy. Even Bing had his own hybrid blend from drug store brand tobaccos. You'll find that blend on TobaccoBlending.com . Another reason is blending with a purpose or to solve a need or problem. Maybe you can't find a commercially blended tobacco with the amount of latakia you'd like or perhaps too much of one kind of tobacco irritates your throat. Here's an example from personal experience. My wife happens to dislike the smell of perique and latakia around the house ... I happen to love both. She loves the smell of aromatic tobaccos. What I ended up doing was taking McClellands 2050 (a slightly cased aromatic that she likes) and experimenting with proportions of latakia and perique. I continued to mix until she could no longer smell either and I could still taste them. The tobacco I love ended up being masked in the room aroma of a tobacco that she loves. I can smoke the two blends indoors now. Problem solved.

Being that we will be starting from a basic standpoint we'll first cover hybrid style blends. These are the easiest to successfully mix and there is a good chance that most of you already have some tobaccos around to start with. Here are some basic guidelines for hybrid blends to get you started.

  • Record everything you do in a notebook for further reference.
  • Record what you liked or didn't like about your creation. This will help tremedously when it comes to fine tuning.
  • Record how it smoked. Did it constantly go out? Did it burn cleanly?
  • Always smoke 2 or 3 bowls of your blends. The first or two bowl will most likely taste of the last tobacco that was smoked in that pipe.
  • Smoke in a clay pipe for a purer tasting smoke. Briar can sometimes influence taste.
  • Blend from one manufacturer's line. McClelland with McLelland, Gawith & Hoggarth with Gawith & Hoggarth ETC. You'll find that one tobacco from a specific manufacturer will readily blend with another.
  • Blend like tobaccos. Flakes blend well with other flakes and mixtures with mixtures.
  • Use less of a strong tobacco. Stonger tobaccos such as English and Balkan styles easily dominate ligher tobaccos. 1 part to 4 - 6 parts is a good starting point.
  • Don't be afraid to mix a Virginia or English style with an aromatic tobacco for a change of pace.
  • Most blends that you'll come up with will taste better if allowed to "marry" first before smoking. Simply seal the mix in a plastic bag with all the air squeezed out for a day or so ... or at least until your curiousity gets the better or you.

I hope you're now inspired to come up with you own private micro blend. Maybe even a blend worth of sharing ... the pipe smoking community will be richer for your efforts. Stay tuned for Part II. Happy Blending!

 

 
A Tobacco Blending Primer Part II
 

In Part I we discussed general rules of blending and some hybrid blending basics. In Part II we'll discuss Raw Component blends. Raw component blends are those composed of raw ingredients. For example ... 3 parts Red Virginia, 2 Parts Stoved Virginia and 1 part Turkish. These types of blends are more difficult to blend. With Hybrid blends you are expounding on existing blends and reaping the rewards of someone else's work. With raw component blends the work rests squarely on your shoulders. You'll need a clear direction and a healthy dose of imagination. The first thing to do is decide what type of blend you'd like to make. Next find a tobacco that you'd like to approximate or improve upon and smoke a few bowls of it. Write down what you like about it and see if you can discribe all the various flavors that the tobacco has that you enjoyed ... and those you didn't. If you don't take the time to do this you'll have a very "hit or miss" go at blending. Also look at the tobacco and see if you can indentify the components. You're not trying to reverse engineer the tobacco but simply getting a feel for it. Note the types of cuts that are used. Are they ribbon? cube? rough cut? Here are some basic guidelines that will help you get started.

  • 10% is a good starting point when using latakia. At about 40% the latakia will dominate all but the most robust Virginia tobaccos.
  • 5% is a good starting point when using perique. At about 15 - 20% the perique will dominate all but the most robust Virginia tobaccos.
  • Virginias are an excellent base tobacco and mix fine amongst themselves.
  • As a rule of thumb you'll find that the lighter the color of a Virginia tobacco the tangier the taste. Darker VA's tend to be richer and more pronouced. You'll also find them to be strong with more of a kick both in flavor and nicotine.
  • Stoved Virginias add a mellowness to a blend as well as a mild raisin type flavor. They also slow down the rate at which the blend will burn. This is an important consideration. Don't over do it. Too much and you'll end up with a bland blend.
  • Unflavored cavendish tobacco adds a certain smoothness and fullness as well as a smokiness ... both in terms of flavor and actual smoke.
  • Turkish type condiment tobaccos tend to add a background hint of sweetness. They also add a lot of balance to a blend. Note that they will cause a blend to burn at a faster rate.
  • Burley tobacco can also be a fine base for a blend. Note that burley tobaccos tend to be a bit on the strong side. They also tend to bite if too much is used. Rough cut burley burns quick. Cubed burley burns slowly. Burley also burns cleanly ... another important consideration.
  • All components should be of the same moisture content. If not the drier tobaccos will leach the moisture and flavors out of the moister tobaccos. If some cases this will cause the blend to be very mono flavored.
  • Allow all blends to marry for a day or two (longer if you have the patience)
  • Record all that you do so you can fine tune.
  • Smoke some of each variety of raw tobacco to get a sense of it's flavor and burning characteristics so you know what it's bringing to the table.

In Part II we'll be covering various tobacco processing and blending techniques. Stay tuned and Happy Blending!

 

 
A Tobacco Blending Primer Part III
 

Now that you're becoming more familiar with the basic comcepts of tobacco blending it's time to turn our attention to tobacco processing proceedures. The basic categories of processing fall into the following classifications; mixing, cutting and pressing.

Mixing your new blends is a fairly straight forward process. We use two methods depending on the size of the batch. For smaller batches of 1 - 3 pounds we used a large stainless steel mixing bowl. They can be found at most restaurant supply houses. They're easy to clean with a little vodka and have the perfect shape for hand mixing. For larger batches simply dump the tobaccos into a large plastic garbage bag a give a good, hearty shake.

Cutting and prepping tobacco is ocassionally necessary. If you're mixing a flake style tobacco into your blend you'll want to "rub" it out first so it mixes well with the other tobaccos. If you don't, the blend won't have the consistency you'll desire. Simply take a handful of the flakes and rub them in the palms of your hands until they are fairly well broken up. There will be times you'll want to finely cut certain tobaccos. In some blends using tobaccos like perique and latakia you'll find that finely cutting them will enhance the blend. This is especially useful if you want these tobaccos to blend into the background rather than be pronouce. For this we like to use a small coffee mill. They can be found in most department stores. We bought ours at Bed Bath & Beyond ... $20 and it's lasted for years. Remember to clean it, after it's unplugged of course, with vodka to keep the blades and bowl clean. Don't overdo the cutting. If you grind the tobaccos to finely they will settle to the bottom.

Pressing your blend is a great way to marry and refine the flavors of the tobaccos and give the mix a head start in the aging process. We have a custom hydraulic press for our needs but you need not get that complicated for small batches. There are several ways you can press. You can use a Food Saver type vacuum sealer. They do a great job of compressing the tobacco. If you take a small flat piece of wood and press the bag down while the air is being drawn out you'll be amazed at the press you'll achieve. Let sit for at least a week ... longer if you can bear the wait. Another simple method is to forcefully hand press the tobacco into a wide mouth mason type canning jar and seal it. If you really want to pack it in take a large dowl or piece of closet pole and smash it down real good. Careful not to break the jar. Keep the jar out of sunlight while you wait for the magic to happen.

In Part IV we'll be covering casing, flavoring and infusioning. Stay tuned and Happy Blending!

 

 
A Tobacco Blending Primer Part IV
 
If you have not yet read Part I, II and III and of this IV Part series, please do so you're up to speed. For even more blending information visit TobaccoBlending.com. For tobacco blending components visit this page.
 

In this final part in this four part series we'll be discussing casing, flavoring and infusing your tobacco blends. Why would you want to do any of the aforementioned proceedures? Simple ... added and different flavors.

Casing is the process by which tobacco is top coated with a flavoring. This process is commonly associated with aromatic tobaccos. Such flavors range from the most subtle vanillas to apples and strong spices. Not all casings need be sweet and gooey. Here are a few guidelines:

  • Use your stainless steel mixing bowl and clean it with vodka when finished.
  • Use a little flavoring at a time. Allow time for the casing to adhere rather than run the risk of over moistening your blend.
  • Use a spray bottle for even coverage.
  • Don't use any flavoring that is perishible.
  • Case small amounts of tobacco first before committing.
  • Always allow at least a day or so before smoking.
  • Try the following; wine, cognac, beer, honey, liquers, extracts, etc. Let your imagination run wild.

Flavoring or "spicing" your tobacco is very simple. We mostly use powdery type flavoring agents. They include the following: nasal snuff, various spices, cocoa powder, dried and powdered condiment tobaccos such as perique and latakia, dehydrated and powdered fruits and more. Again, use your imagination. Please, nothing you wouldn't want in your lungs in the first place. A little goes a long way. Simply spinkle and mix so the flavoring adheres to the tobacco.

Infusing tobacco provides the richest and longest lasting flavors. The process is easy to do. First place your tobacco in your mixing bowl and weight it on your scale. Note the weight. For an example let say 16 ounces (1 lb.). Now set the tobacco aside or let it sit on the scale while it dries out. Exposed to air all tobacco will lose moisture. Do not try to accelerate the process with heat or sunlight as that will only damage the tobacco. Once the tobacco has dried to the proper weight it's time to infuse. There is no set weight I can prescribe. You'll have to experiment but as a rule of thumb 1 - 3 ounces. Spray your flavoring on the dried tobacco until it reaches it's original weight. If you let the tobacco dry by 2 ounces then you will be using 2 ounces of flavoring. You are reintroducing the moisture that was lost but this time it is flavored and will infuse the tobacco. Lightly spray the flavor a little at a time and very lightly toss. You don't want to apply any pressure or roughness to the mixing process due to the dryness of the tobacco. Once the tobacco is back up to it's original weight and well mixed let it sit for about an hour and add more flavor if there is any further evaporation. Let set a spell before smoking. You can use any of the above mentioned flavors to infuse. My personal favorite is port wine.

I hope you've enjoyed and learned from this Four Part Tobacco Blending Primer. If you come up with a keeper don't forget to share it with others. Happy Blending!

 

 
How Many Pipes Should Be In Your Rotation?
 

This is a question that is presented to us on a regular basis. The answer has to be based on several variables such as the following;

  1. How often do you smoke?
  2. What type of tobacco do you smoke?
  3. Does your smoking style lend itself more towards ending up with a somewhat dry or wet pipe?
  4. Do you smoke the same tobacco all day?

As a general rule you should allow at least 1 to 2 hours for your pipe to rest after you finish smoking. This allows enough time for your pipe to properly cool down and dry out ... for the most part. The time of tobacco you smoke plays a role too. Aromatic tobacco burns slightly wetter and tends to cause a pipe to retain moisture longer. Virginias tend to burn cleaner and drier and sometimes the pipe can be put back in action in as little as 30 - 45 minutes. If you are accustomed to smoking your pipe enough to conflict with these suggested times then you should be using 2 or more pipes in your daily rotation. If you are a "wet" smoker or have a few cherished pipes that matter to smoker a tad on the wet side than you should also be using 2 or more pipes in your daily rotation. As discussed in a previous newsletter, it is best to dedicate a pipe for each type of tobacco that you smoke. So, if you smoke more than one type of tobacco during the coarse of the day than you'll need to add more pipes into your daily rotation. Each pipe in your rotation should have the minimum of 2 days off after being used for the day and cleaned every 5 - 10 bowls depending on the tobacco smoked and your smoking habits.

Hmmmm ... So let's do the math ... well let's not and say we did and sum up with the following general rules of thumb; If you smoke on a daily basis and have a good pipe cleaning and care schedule established the bare minimum amount of pipes in your rotation should be no less than 3. 7 would be the ideal minimum and would ensure well rested, fresh pipes and spread out your time spent cleaning. What's right for you? Simply take these suggested minimum rotations and factor in the four questions above. Me? I'm a minimum 21 kinda guy. I smoke 3 types of tobacco each day and keep my pipes dedicated within reason. Aromatic in the morn, VA mid day and a smooth English blend in the evenings. I also like to let my pipes rest for a week and set aside one night a week for cleaning. Yup, 21 for me but I always find an excuse for more ;). Happy Smoking!

 

 
Is Pipe Smoking Gaining In Popularity?
 

These days it seems that all tobacco use is so heavily frowned upon by "society". Is it possible that pipe smoking is actually on the rise? The answer is yes.Industry studies support this. There are several reasons for this.

  • The 90s saw a huge cigar boom. Many of those that learned to enjoy cigars are now turning to pipes. Spurned by the over pricing and poor quality brought on by the boom and the intangability of the actual cigars themselves, folks have discovered a wonderful alternative in pipes.
  • With the right tobacco, pipe smoke envokes the fondest memories in most people ... even those opposed to smoking. How many times have you heard how your pipe smoke reminded someone of Grandpa?
  • Pipe smoking is economical. Even if you smoking the finest tobacco money can buy, a bowlful cost pennys.
  • Smoking a pipe causes one to relax and reflect.
  • There are currently thousands of tobaccos to choose from.
  • The abilility to blend ones own pipe tobacco.
  • The selection of pipes available today is mind boggling. Whether you're a collector of a specific year, shape or brand or simply looking for the most bang for your buck ... you're in luck. The possiblities are now endless.
  • Even as brick and mortar pipe shops close routinely, the internet has been an excellent resource for pipe smokers world wide.
  • Cigarette smokers are crossing over to our healthier form of tobacco consumption.
  • Fellowship. For the most part pipe smokers are good, decent and kind people. Pipe smokers tend to develop healthy, long term bonds with one another. You can never have enough friends!

Now before we drop our guard and start feeling too warm and fuzzy there is a couple of things to think about. One major concern to pipe smokers world wide are all the proposed bans on the shipment of pipe tobacco. This would put a huge damper on those who order online. Read more HERE. Also, the recent rash of laws banning smoking in public and private places throughout the country should be a concern to us all. So what can we do? Simple. Get involved, vote, stay informed, support your local pipe shops and for pete's sake ... proudly smoke your pipe in public as much as possible. Happy Smoking!

 

 
How To Re-hydrate Pipe Tobacco
 

We've all had it happen ... reach for that tobacco you've been craving and it's dry as a bone. Who came up with that expression anyway? First we'll cover what Not to do.

DON'T

  • Do not use apple slices or other fruit. You'll run the risk of mold and gumming up your bowl.
  • Do not leave it in the bath while you shower. Although this does work your tobacco will pick up the perfumes of bath soaps and shampoo.
  • Do not use tap water.

DO

  • Be gentle with the dry tobacco or you'll end up with a pile of dust even if you rehydrate correctly.
  • Mix 1 teaspoon of white vinegar in 1 quart of water. Distilled water is best.
  • Spread out the dry tobacco in a flat glass or stainless steel bowl or tray.
  • Lightly spray the tobacco with the prepared water. Start with very little.
  • Cover the tobacco with a lid or plastic wrap so the water adsorbs rather than evaporates. Repeat if necessary
  • Once back to the correct moisture level allow the tobacco to sit for a day before smoking.

If done correctly and patiently your tobacco with be almost as good as new. Happy Smoking!

 

 
The Proper Light Revisited
 
The number one question we receive after all these years remains "What is the proper way to light my pipe?". While there is no perfect way there are a few recommended ways. I wrote an article on the subject over a year ago but I thought it was worth covering once again. This time, with thanks to our friends at Pipevideos.com, you'll get to see the technique in action. Sit back, grab your pipe and some tobacco and enjoy this following video .... Click Here to View
Please note that this video is designed for high speed internet connections but with a bit of patience it can be viewed by all.
 

 
Seasonal Pipe Tobacco
 

Do certain pipe tobaccos lend themselves to different seasons or times of the year? I think so. Now that the cooler weather has finally arrived I find myself smoking more blends with latakia such as English or Balkan style blends. For me, these blends seem some what richer and more complex especially when smoked outside in the cool air of autumn. I can taste flavors that are almost undetectable while smoking during the warmer months. The smoke is heavier and less wispy in the thin air and lingers longer. That rich, thick smoke brings about a certain feeling of satisfaction and has a calming effect. Perfect for watching the leaves change colors and seeing mother nature and father time work their collective wonders. The warm pipe bowl is a comfort in my hand and gives me a sense of well being knowing that all is right in the world in that small place and time.

During the Holidays I find myself guided towards tasty aromatic blends. They remind me of the past, my Grandfather, traditions and the sweet peacefulness that comes during these special times of the year. They also help our friends and loved ones remember us just as we remember the enticing tobacco smells of those that came before us. There is simply nothing quite like the cozy feeling of a room filled with wonderful pipe smoke, a home cooked feast and those we care about .....